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Cut for Tension Hoop

Cut for Tension Hoop

The tension hoop slips over the rim and is pulled down about 1/2in onto it.  I chiseled the area of the neck where it meets the rim to provide the needed clearance. I’ll need to cut a bit more away from the bottom of the slot to provide room for the part of the...
Attaching Neck to Rim

Attaching Neck to Rim

The neck is not fastened permanently to the rim with glue, but is held in place with some hardware and a piece called the dowel stick.  The dowel stick is really just an extension of the neck that passes through the rim.  The dowel stick is tenoned into the neck and...

Finishing Peghead Inlay

While I think about the next steps of making the dowel stick and shaping the neck, I decided to finish the inlay on the peghead.  I finished cutting the mother of pearl, and filed some of the edges smooth.  The ebony on the peghead needs to be cut to accept the mother...

Separating Rim from Lathe Plate

Once I was finished with shaping the rim and sanding it smooth, it was time to separate it from the plywood backing it was glued to.  The rim blank was about 3in deep and I decided that the finished rim should be 2 1/2in deep, based on how the rim, the heel of the...

Turning the Rim

I somehow managed to not take any pictures of my rim blank before moving on to the next step, but here is a photo of one from the web: The blank needs to be mounted on the lathe so it can be turned.  I decided the easiest way for me was to glue the blank to a circle...

Gluing the Rim Strips Together

Once the rims strips were bent into shape and dry, they needed to be glued together to build the rim blank.  The rim blank is then turned on a lathe to make it perfectly round and the correct size.  I made a form for gluing up the strips shown here: The form is made...